One of Portugal’s finest gems is, without a doubt, the city of Sintra, famously known for its wonderful and colourful castles, especially the National Palace of Pena. To this day, this stunning top-of-the-mountain castle with its vivid primary colours, surrounding nature and gorgeous architecture is one of the most beautiful things I have seen in my life, and I have seen my share of monuments, art pieces, palaces and scenery! I visited the city of Sintra, including three different castles, on a hot summer day in 2017. I sweated, I sighed, I got frustrated at some point because I was completely lost, but at the end of the day, I stood in total awe in front of such beauty. The colours of Pena are still imprinted in my mind, and I hope that everyone who travels to Portugal visits this palace; it truly is an unforgettable sight.
21 August 2017, 9:30 am
I have just arrived at the train station in Lisbon, prepared for my day in Sintra. I have my water bottle, a hat, a small backpack, some food, and I am wearing a ton of sunscreen: I am more than ready to explore this wonderland city. My train leaves in 15 minutes, my phone is fully charged, ready as well, because I know that I am about to take a million pictures, or more.
11:00 am
I have arrived to my destination: Sintra. I know that the city is quite small and that it is possible to visit everything there is to see simply by walking. I wander around. I do not have a map, but everything seems to be well indicated here. I see a sign with “National Palace” written on it, so I, of course, decide that I will follow it. I end up in front of a castle and realize that it is not the one I am looking for. It is a National Palace indeed, but not Pena’s. Never mind, it is early in the day, so I go in, pay, and visit. It’s a nice little palace with small gardens, it is enjoyable but it is not the grand castle I want to visit. While there, I ask around about the National Palace of Pena. “Pena? Oh, it’s on top of the mountain! You can take the shuttle or you can hike”. With that information in mind, I decide to stay outside to enjoy the gardens and eat something before my little excursion.
1:00 pm
I am readier than ever (or so I think) to reach my destination. I find the mountain, there are different hiking paths that lead to the top, some more challenging than others. Since I am incredibly proud and stubborn, I decide to take the one with the highest level of difficulty. It is very hot outside, so that hike is a great work-out! I get lost at some point, but hey!, I don’t care, I’m on vacation, there is no rush. An hour and a half later, I finally see a sign: “Sintra Castle”. That must be it. Excited, I walk more quickly, arrive at a little counter, pay, enter the site, and realize that not only are there a thousand steps to climb to get to the top of the castle… but also that this is not the right castle (again!) It’s still not Pena. Well, since I am there, and mainly because I have paid, I decide to visit. I learn that this is the Castle of the Moors. It looks medieval with its big fortress. It is impressive and great, but it’s not Pena! When I finally reach the top, I see it. It does exist! In the distance stands the palace I am looking for, all red and yellow. It’s gorgeous, it’s not a myth, but it seems so, so, sooooo far!
3:30 pm
Okay, that is it. I know where Pena Palace is, I saw it from the top of the other castle. I have to hike again, and find the way. Fortunately, I see a family on the road, ask them about Pena, and they are nice enough to point me to the right path. Awesome! I know the direction now, I will see that goddamn palace. Worryingly, I hope that it will be as beautiful and grand as it supposed to be. I would be so disappointed if it was a tourist-trap type of place. I stop on my way to eat a little, and after only 30 minutes, I FINALLY arrive. I am tired, the sun is still too hot, but. I. Don’t. Care. There it is, there it stands. Oh, the beauty! The National Palace is much more stunning in reality than on all of the pictures I have seen. It is huge, the colours are vibrant, the contrast of the red and yellow walls with the greenery of the mountains all around is nothing but breathtaking. I am in love! I spend a good hour there, smiling, happy, at peace.
Pena, you are so, so, so lovely.
5:00 pm
I start my descent. It only takes me 45 minutes, I know the way now! My mind is full of beautiful images, and along with the hiking and the heat, I know that I will sleep well tonight. Shortly after 6:00 pm, I arrive at the train station, the next departure is at 6:30. At 7:45, I am in Lisbon, and at my hotel at 8:30. What a day! I saw incredible sights, I visited three castles, I exercised, I got (a little) mad, but mostly, I contemplated peacefully. My legs may be tired, but my soul is surely well-rested.
I will never forget today.
Bittersweet Travel Memories 